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By Mike Green
Thursday, June 23
- Plymouth, MN to Oklahoma City, OK
I leave Plymouth at 5am. The bike is running good. I just had
the carburetors retuned. For those of you who aren't familiar with
the '97 Valkyrie, it has a 1500cc, six-cylinder engine with six
carburetors. Nowadays, Honda has updated this to an 1800cc engine
with fuel injection. I imagine that the new setup would be a lot
less troublesome. It seems like I need to have this bike retuned
every couple of years to keep it happy. As I ride through southern
Minnesota towards Iowa, I think about whether I should go ahead
and get a set of gauges to tune the bike myself. I've read through
the procedure in the shop manual and it doesn't sound bad. It's
just that I never seem to have enough time. I'd much rather spend
my time riding than maintaining. Well, enough of that. It's time
to ride.
I'm planning on joining the Mexico Run with the Lost Chapter of
the High Rollers on Saturday, the 25th, so I don't have time to
lollygag on the way down to Houston. This will be a straight run
down I35/I45 to Houston. Not the most scenic ride, but one I've
done many times over the years. My trips usually are not very planned
out. The general outline for this trip is to spend two days riding
from Plymouth to Houston, two days on the Mexico Run, visit in
Houston for three days, catch a meeting with the Northwest Chapter
and spend five days riding back to Minnesota. I've already found
out that the Northwest Chapter doesn't meet every Wednesday any
more, but they are going to get together anyway for this occasion.
On Thursday, I'm thinking of taking the Natchez trace to Tennessee,
going east and catching the Blue Ridge Parkway. A lot depends on
the weather. If the Appalachians are socked in with bad weather,
I could go west through New Mexico and Colorado and check out the
Rockies. I have until July 5th before I go back to work. I want
to spend as much time as possible between now and then riding.
The riding season in Minnesota is much shorter than the one in
Texas. There are a lot of bikes though and the riders seem determined
to make up for lost time when the weather is good. It seemed like
spring came late this year, so I have not had a lot of riding time
before this trip.
The road is good. The bike is running good. I feel good. The air
feels good. The same trip can be made by plane, by car or by bike.
On a bike, you're immersed in the air. You move through it and
it's all around you. The early summer air is crisp and full of
the smells of new life. I breathe deep and feel tensions flowing
out. I've really missed getting out and spending time on the road.
There's nothing like a smooth interstate highway on a good day
for just unwinding and letting the hours and miles roll by.
As I approach the southern
border of Iowa, I make a gas stop and decide it's getting too
hot to continue wearing my leather jacket.
It felt good when I started this morning, but it's getting a bit
hot even while going down the road. It's time to put the first
layer of sunscreen on my arms. I haven't had a lot of exposure
to the sun and don't want to start the trip with a bad sunburn.
On this trip I’m using SPF50 sunscreen, so as long as I keep
putting it on, I should be fine.
When I get to Kansas City, I decide to ride through town on I35
rather than take the bypass. It's 1pm and the traffic shouldn't
be too bad. Bad decision. The I35 bridge across the Missouri River
is closed and I end up on a detour. I wanted to slow down a little
and see the city, but now I'm slowing down a bit more than I wanted
and spending more time in the city than I wanted. As I leave Kansas
City, I realize that I never did bother to do a trip plan to check
for construction or new roads. It's a little late now.
So far, I've been stopping
every 100 miles or so for gas. I could push it further, I don’t hit reserve until 130 miles, but
my old joints really appreciate being moved more often than every
two hours. When I get on the Kansas Turnpike, I match speed with
some fast traffic. The opportunities for gas are further apart
and I have a bit of a scare when I hit reserve at 85 miles. It's
30 miles to the next stop. I hit reserve at around 4.2 gallons
and have another 1.3 gallons at that point. As I calculate my mileage
in my head and the resulting range, I drop my speed down a bit.
When I pull into the stop, I have 0.5 gallons left. My bike doesn't
get stellar mileage, but going fast into a strong headwind really
kills the mileage. I don’t mind paying more for extra gas
I’m using. I’m more concerned with the loss of range.
After filling up, I get back on the road and wonder if the tune
up before the trip may be the culprit for my particularly bad mileage
on that last tank. I rehearse what I will say to the mechanic when
I get home. I ride into Oklahoma and at the next stop; the mechanic
is off the hook. It wasn't his fault. It helps when I don't ride
like a bat out of hell.
I roll into Oklahoma City at 7pm and check into a motel. It's
been a good day. I've covered about 800 miles and I feel good.
Friday, June 24 - Oklahoma City, OK to Houston, TX
I sleep late (for me), eat breakfast and leave Oklahoma City at
6am. I don't want to hit Dallas during rush hour, so I'm leaving
late to arrive in Dallas at 9:30am. One problem with interstates
is they do tend to connect big cities and if I wanted to sit in
bad traffic, I could have saved a lot of time and effort and just
hit one of the commuter parking lots back home.
It’s going to be another perfect day. I roll through the
Ozarks in Oklahoma and have a couple of moments when my jacket
would have felt good. As I enter Texas, I feel like I’m being
welcomed home. I’ve more of my years in Texas than anywhere
else. I’m still quite a ways from Houston, but somehow all
of Texas feels like home. I’ve timed my arrival into Dallas
pretty well and I only slow down a couple of times before I’m
on I45 and on the final leg into Houston.
By noon, it’s starting to feel hot. I stop for gas and lunch,
but I’m much more interested in getting out of the heat and
drinking water than eating. I’m really not acclimated to
the heat anymore. I’ve spent enough time up north that I
can handle 40 degrees a lot better than 100 degrees. Still, I feel
good when I’m back on the road.
If I felt welcomed when
I got into Texas, Houston delivers a big warm hug when I arrive.
It’s in the form of an hour of stop
and go traffic in mid afternoon. I do get a chance to look around
though. My friends Wayne and Glenda Eatmon have offered to put
me up while I’m in Houston. I stop at Glenda’s office,
then it’s on to Ghostriders where Wayne works. The fellow
working up front doesn’t recognize me, so I send him back
to get Wayne with the message that I was told he does good work
on Hondas. (Wayne can’t really be called a fan of Honda motorcycles.)
I can’t repeat what Wayne said when he got the message. After
a short visit, I’m off to their home to wake up their son
who, like my son, is nocturnal.
Since Wayne gave me
a key, I just let myself in, take a shower and relax. I’ve
covered about 450 miles today and feel pretty good. The alarm
to get up and meet the Mexico Run will come early,
so I decide to be sensible for once and crash early.
Saturday, June 25 – Houston, TX to Progresso, Mexico
(and back)
I meet Goon from the
Lost Chapter of the High Rollers at 7am. It turns out that between
the heat and concerns about how safe
it is to go to Mexico, the pack has dwindled down to just the two
of us. Goon is determined to go to Mexico and I just spent two
days on the interstate to get here in time, so we decide to go
for it. Besides, it’s another perfect day and we’d
rather be riding than anything else.
Goon has the route well
planned and knows where to stop. We fall into a relaxed rhythm
of riding and watching the countryside. In
the afternoon, we run into some welcome sun showers and it’s
cooler than it was yesterday when I rode from Dallas to Houston.
I’m always fascinated by the change in the vegetation as
I ride. One species fades to another as the miles pass. By the
time we reach Mexico, cactus and palm trees have made a solid appearance.
This run was to commemorate a ride that a group of High Rollers
made 30 years ago. While they rode into the interior and spent
a lot more time in Mexico, this ride is just a quick visit.
Despite 9/11, crossing
into Mexico is as relaxed as I remember from the pre 9/11 days.
Pay to cross the bridge and you’re
in. We ride a couple of blocks into the tourist area and park the
bikes. We pay a fellow to watch the bikes and wander up and down
the street with the rest of the tourists.
It’s interesting to see what’s for sale. There are
a lot of the expected trinkets, pharmaceuticals and liquor. You
can also get dental work and surgeries performed. I don’t
suppose they are in my insurance company’s list of approved
providers. Small boys are constantly offering to shine my shoes.
One advantage of riding motorcycles is that you really can’t
handle buying souvenirs.
The top frame of the
cheap sunglasses I’m wearing broke
on the way down from Houston. It’s just a matter of time
before one of the lenses pops out, so I decide to check out the
sunglasses for sale. Fortunately, there is someone selling Oakley
sunglasses from one of the stands that line the street. I pick
one out and ask how much. The fellow says five dollars, and I get
out my wallet to pay him. Goon, being more experienced, says I
should dicker on the price, so I say six dollars. The fellow smiles
and says yes. I go ahead and pay five dollars. I’m really
not sure if they are fake Oakley sunglasses or black market or
what. In any case, they are good replacement cheap sunglasses.
Soon, it’s time to return to the United States. We ride
back to the border and pull up to the crossing. The fee to cross
the bridge still has to be paid. I’m curious what the US
officials will put us through. I’ve brought pretty much every
document I could think of with me. I don’t have a passport,
so I brought the works. I have my shot records, my elementary school
report cards, a utility bill with my home address, etc. (I’m
really not sure why I get this way at border crossings. I do manage
to suppress these “humorous” urges though. If figure
it’s probably not a good idea to give these guys a rough
time.) I wave Goon forward to cross first. There is a station with
what look like cameras and sensors aimed at the vehicle. I always
like to look into the camera and smile. (Ok, sometimes I let something
through.) While I look at the devices around me, I can see Goon
at the next station talking to the Customs officer. He has his
driver’s license out and is talking to the officer. I imagine
that the officer has asked Goon why he was in Mexico and Goon is
telling him at great length about the group of High Rollers who
rode here 30 years ago and that this is a ride to commemorate that.
Actually, I don’t know what they talked about, but it was
clear that the officer did not find anything Goon said alarming.
The officer waves Goon through and I pull up. I take out my driver’s
license and the officer glances at me and asks “Are you with
him?” When I say yes, he waves me through and says, “Go
ahead”.
Goon has a restaurant
picked out for dinner. It’s a little
early, so we stop at a hotel on the way to check in. They have
some event at the hotel and it’s booked up. We go eat and
decide to ride north and look for a place at the next stop. It’s
still early and we both feel like riding.
At the next stop, we
decide that it’s still early and we
both feel like riding. In fact, why don’t we ride all the
way back? I know that some of Goon’s brothers didn’t
want him to ride to Mexico on his own and they were glad to hear
that I was going with him. Perhaps they thought I would provide
a voice of reason to keep him from doing anything crazy like riding
all day and then into the night to get back in one day. Well, all
I can say is that if that’s the case, they picked the wrong
guy for the job! We ride on and I roll back into Wayne and Glenda’s
garage at 10:30.
Thursday, June 30 – Houston, TX to Natchez, MS
Last night, High Rollers
and friends met me at the Time Out Sports Bar. It’s always good to meet my friends. There are a lot
that I didn’t manage to catch up with during this visit.
I’ll have to do better next time.
Today it’s time
to leave Houston and get back on the road. I check with the Weather
Channel and it looks good in the Appalachians.
Everything is a go to ride the Blue Ridge Parkway this trip! I
hit interstate 10 and head east.
In east Texas, the highway
department is working on the road. A sign announces that the
left lane is closed. There’s the
usual shuffle as most drivers move into the right lane, stop and
wait for those who won’t wait their turn. An 18 wheeler blocks
the closed lane and eventually we get to the closed section. It’s
only about a hundred feet long and we’re back to two lanes.
Glad that’s over!
But it’s not.
In two miles, they do it again. The pattern repeats. I guess
they saved a few cones by not just closing a lane
and keeping it closed. It sure made for a miserable ride though.
When I get to Baton
Rouse, it’s 102 degrees and I can really
feel the heat. I take the “Scenic Highway” exit to
head up to Natchez, MS. After the turn, I realize that it’s
the name of the road. It’s really not all that scenic until
you get out of Baton Rouge. I spend the night in Natchez. I’m
in a perfect position to ride north on the Natchez Trace tomorrow.
Friday, July 1 – Natchez, MS to Fayetteville, TN
This is the third time
I’ve ridden the Trace. If you like
the idea of cruising all day on a good road with no stop signs,
almost no other traffic and historic markers every few miles, this
is the place. Since ancient times, the Native Americans used this
trail. Later, the “Kaintuck” boatmen used it to return
overland to Nashville after floating their cargos to the markets
in Natchez and New Orleans. Now it’s my turn. On the relaxed
ride through the trees on the parkway, my bike is getting more
than 40 miles to the gallon. I stop at 160 miles and I still haven’t
hit reserve. I really need to start taking it easy on the highways!
A couple of years ago,
just as I entered Iowa on the way back from Texas, my bike spooked
a turkey. The turkey decided that the
best way to escape was to fly right in front of me across the highway.
I saw him out of the corner of my eye and had just enough time
to duck, but he still bounced off my helmet. I pulled off the road,
brushed feathers off my visor and the scuff marks off the helmet.
I had always heard that they were pretty smart birds. Now I’m
not sure.
On the Natchez Trace,
I see a cousin to the turkey in Iowa. This time, two cars approach
each other in front of me. The turkey panics
when he sees two cars at once and like his cousin, decides that
the best escape is to fly across the road between them. Somehow,
he made it. I’m still in Mississippi, but not too far from
Tennessee. Do you think it’s ok to harvest road kill in Mississippi
like it is in Tennessee? I see several dead turkeys on the road
during the ride up the Trace.
When I get into Tennessee,
I head east and stop in Fayetteville to visit my sister and her
family. I lose a few hours of riding
time, but it doesn’t seem right to be so close and not stop
to say hi.
Saturday, July 2 – Fayetteville, TN to Asheville,
NC
I continue east and
it starts to rain. The traffic is a little heavy. This is the
4th of July weekend and this area has a lot
of popular tourist traps. When I pass the Dollywood exit, the eastbound
traffic thins out a lot. On the westbound side, an SUV has spun
out in the rain and while bouncing against the concrete divider,
managed to break all of its windows. I’m glad to take the
exit for the Blue Ridge Parkway and get away from the traffic.
The rain stops and I
really start to enjoy the ride. I stop at every other overlook
to look at the mountains. It’s pretty
murky. I guess they’re called smokey mountains for a good
reason.
After about an hour,
I ride into a thunderstorm. I pull into a picnic area and talk
to some people coming from the north. There
are more storms ahead and it’s getting late. I leave the
parkway and I’m almost back to Asheville before I find a
hotel room for the night.
Sunday, July 3 – Ashville, NC to Mt Vernon, IL
I wake up to more rain. So much for the prediction from the Weather
Channel. I have two days to get back home. Time to head west.
As I pass through Nashville,
it stops raining and I do the math. I really don’t have
enough time to ride back down to Fayetteville to visit my sister
again. Too bad.
Like interstate 10 west
from Houston through Texas, I’ve
been on this stretch of interstates 40 and 24 enough times to recite
the exits. When I get into Illinois, I decide to stop at Metropolis.
I’ve always wanted to visit Superman’s home town. I’ve
seen it in the movies and it seemed a lot larger. I guess it’s
the special effects. Somehow, the real thing looks more like Smallville.
Monday, July 4 – Mt Vernon, IL to Plymouth, MN
I’m riding into a cold front. Boy does that feel good! The
winters up here aren’t the best for riding, but the summers
are hard to beat. I’m riding in sunshine, but it’s
still cool enough to wear a jacket. I roll into my garage at 3pm.
Saturday, July 9 – Just a quick ride around town
I’ve finished four days back at work. If my boss is reading
this, it was a very productive week since I was recharged by my
vacation. Well, to tell the truth, I did spend a few minutes thinking
about my next trip. The hour that I spent on the Blue Ridge Parkway
was enough to convince me that I’ve got to keep trying until
the weather cooperates. There’re a “couple” of
other nice roads in that area too. Maybe not this weekend though.
It’s hard not
to head out of state. My Oakley sunglasses from Mexico
break at a gas stop. Maybe I should go get another
pair…
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